Saturday, October 25, 2014

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Friday, August 1, 2014

So either you now have the motorcycle bug which means you are upgrading to a bigger or different style Brand New Motorcycle and your off to spend your hard earned dollars or Credit money or outgrown that first second hand motorcycle you've had for a learner for your shiny new purchase, good for you!   
But you want some tips on how to get the best deal, or extra added freebies.
I'll start by presuming you know what bike you wish to purchase and the full purchase price from the local motorcycle dealer. I hope to help you get what you want for cheaper. 

Never ever go in and purchase the motorcycle straight up, actually don't even look interested, take a few lesser smaller bikes for a test ride, all different styles makes and models, knowing your eye is on one particular. 
After a few rides and even numerous visits to the store, get real interested in a smaller bike, then say "Hey, what;s the best price you can do on that one" (the one your interested in. 

The Motorcycle store person will be pleased your now looking at a bigger purchase plus bigger profit for him, so he should immediately cut a few hundred dollars off for the potential upgrade. 

You can typically count on 15%-20% markup.  This will help you get a good haggling price range to start at. 

Try not to purchase a brand new motorcycle in the first few months of the year when the newer models are just out, as you will not get much if any discount. 

If you can wait until the end of the year (season) and you'll find the seller quite more willing to haggle over a cheaper price to get the motorcycle out the door to make way for the next years models to display. 

Most motorcycle dealership have various fees, on road costs, registration etc etc and the like, always ask for the "out the door price" they sometimes will not caculate those fees into the cost saving you between $500 to a grand on your bill. 

Make sure you've asked if that includes the 'SETUP FEE' as they may also include this, which basically means adjusting the footpegs, levers, suspension etc to suit you. 

It doesn't hurt to do some research and see what other 'optional' extras you would end up buying anyway and ask for them at a discount price. Remember if you ask for more stuff, near the end of negotiations, expect them to say they are going to need to adjust the price. 

It's hard to do but never be too impatient and don't believe everything the seller tells you like, it's the last one, or 5 guys come in and where interested in this bike etc. 

Once you have the offer, ask the motorcycle seller to give you a written quote, and just like buying a car walk out the door, you can always walk back in.  This will now have given you your biggest bargaining tool, especially if sales are down and need to get rid of the bikes. 

With your quote, shop around! A few phone calls and especially seeing other dealers should also drop the price once again. 

I think following these simple rules will have your shiny brand new bike in your garage and money in your pocket for fuel... 
Please vote 'Yes' if this guide was helpful for you...    It works for me. 

How To Buy A Motorcycle

Nobody really has to buy a motorcycle. But these days plenty of people want to. And you may be one of them. Before you plunk down your money, swing your leg over the seat and feel that warm breeze of freedom, you need to resolve several critical issues.

Am I an experienced rider?
Riding a motorcycle is undeniably fun. It also can be lethal if done wrong. Therefore, before you even consider buying any kind of motorcycle, assess your skills and abilities. If you're a rank novice, you need to learn how to ride. If you've been away from motorcycling for a while, you should take a refresher course. And if you don't already have a motorcycle license, you're going to need one to ride legally. The best course of action is to go to a riding school. To find one, contact the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (800-446-9227; www.msf-usa.org) in Irvine, Calif.

How do I intend to ride?
The kind of riding you're interested in fairly well dictates the type of bike you should shop for. Conversely, the kind of bike you ride largely defines your motorcycling world and lifestyle. So, besides selecting the motorcycle based on its mechanical and performance attributes, consider what circles you'll likely be riding in—so to speak. If you don't think of yourself as a racer or a biker in the Wild One vein, and you would be comfortable at, say, an Eagles reunion concert, consider a traditional bike. People attracted to sportbikes, on the other hand, tend to indulge in extreme activities—thinkThe Fast and the Furious, only on two wheels. If you want to hang with the hip-hop crowd, maybe you're a sportbike candidate. Folks who enjoy the touring lifestyle tend to be older—often they're retirees—and are in no kind of hurry when they watch the scenery go by on all sides. If an RV lifestyle or dinner theater appeals to you, so might a touring bike. But if you want to put some adventure into a long daily commute, you may be cruiser-bike material.

How much should I spend?
It's a discretionary purchase—the mortgage comes first, okay? Depending on the type of motorcycle you choose, you can expect to pay anywhere from under $5000 to $25,000 for a new bike. Motorcycle dealers, like auto dealers, will do what they can to help you with financing options, and many offer used bikes as well.

Do I really need a new bike?
For many riders, a used motorcycle is a better option. Besides being more affordable than a new bike, a used one is a sensible transitional machine. You may find that the bike you bought to get you back in the game is somehow lacking after you've spent some serious time on it. And the reality is, sooner or later your first motorcycle is going to hit the pavement. There's no reason that the bike you ding up needs to be an expensive one right out of the crate. Give yourself a few months to get comfortable—then you'll be more than ready for a new set of wheels.

Is this the bike for me?
As you shop, consider your body type: If you cannot put both feet flat on the ground when the bike is upright, it's too tall for you, period. Also, if this is your first bike, or you've never ridden anything scarily fast, don't even look at a high-performance bike.

That said, if you see yourself using the bike primarily as daily transportation, consider a standard, or traditional, bike. If you used to ride years ago, these will look familiar, but feel better thanks to electric starters, fuel injection and disc brakes. If your commute is a long one, you typically do it with a passenger and you want a bit more style, the next logical choice is a cruiser. If you intend to spend many hours and miles in the saddle with a passenger sitting behind you, you need a touring bike. For a little more performance in a touring bike, there's a subset called sport/touring. If you primarily want to straighten curvy roads, your needs will be best met with a sportbike. If you want a basic commuter that can keep going when the pavement doesn't, look at a dual-purpose bike: a standard bike with extra ground clearance and knobby tires.



















What else do I need?
Before you start riding, you'll require a helmet, jacket, gloves, boots, rain suit and, possibly, dedicated eyewear—especially if you wear glasses. Don't stint when you buy your riding outfit: Should you ever need it, it's all there is between you and the hard, coarse pavement. Buy a helmet that meets both DOT (Department of Transportation) and Snell Memorial Foundation's current safety standards, nothing less.

Then, after you're fully trained and equipped, prepare for adversity. Expose yourself to what you're bound to face eventually when riding in a safe and controlled environment. While you may never intend to ride in the rain, sooner or later you're going to get caught in a shower. Go to an empty parking lot or deserted stretch of road on a rainy morning to get yourself used to the feel of wet pavement and how the bike reacts to braking, accelerating and swerving in the wet. These are skills you don't want to have to learn on the job.

BUYING USED

Whether you buy a used motorcycle from a dealer or an individual, compare the odometer reading with the condition of the bike. Does it look right? Ask to see the maintenance and service records and receipts.

• Look for rust and scratches on the bodywork, tank and fenders. Inspect the footpegs for wear: Worn on top means lots of miles. Worn on the bottom means a rider leaning over too far in corners.

• A cracked or weather-beaten seat and faded, oxidized paint means the bike has seen a hard life.

• Check for new or aftermarket parts that have obviously replaced broken ones. Specifically, check the footpegs, mirrors, handlebar grips, and brake and clutch levers.

• Inspect the engine and transmission cases for oil seepage, weeping and leaks.

• The chain should be clean and tight, with about an inch of slack measured halfway between the sprockets on the bottom run. A rusty or grime-caked chain indicates lack of maintenance.

• Brake discs should be smooth, clean and not blue—a sign of dragging/overheating brakes. Examine the tires for signs of abuse.

• The bike should start easily and may initially emit a little smoke on a cold startup. If it's hard to start or billows clouds of smoke—especially blue smoke—beware.



Know Your Shopping Style

Step 1
Even with the large amount of automotive information available on the internet, many people still purchase new cars within only a few days of making the decision to buy. This leaves a huge opportunity for a buyer to be sold a car, that he or she may not actually have wanted, rather than making an informed purchase decision to buy a car.

Remember, as the buyer, you should be the one in control throughout the entire process, and you should be making many choices along the way before you even step into a dealership. With so much reliable information available, even if you already have a strong preference about the vehicle you want, if you take some time to do some research and be open-minded you may be pleasantly surprised by the outcome.

Here's one way to start: Take a look at the following list of different types of shoppers and decide which one best describes you. After that, begin your vehicle search by using one of the convenient short cuts shown below, or simply follow all 10 Steps to Buying a New Car to cover all the bases.

Value Shopper
You want a good price, but you are willing to pay for quality.
Short Cut: Check out J.D. Power quality ratings on the vehicles you are interested in.

Image Shopper
You are concerned with what your vehicle says about you. Does it project a desirable image?
Short Cut: Review the top most researched vehicles in the category you're shopping.

Methodical Shopper
You enjoy the chase as much as the conquest, and cover every base, becoming somewhat of a new-car expert.
Short Cut: Go through the entire "10 Steps to Buying a New Car" process.

Safety-Conscious Shopper
You want a safe and reliable vehicle you can trust to keep you and your family safe on the road.
Short Cut: Read about the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's new Government 5-Star Safety ratings system

Whatever your shopping style, the information you gather and the effort you put into the process will serve you well and help you avoid the buyer's remorse that often accompanies automotive purchases.

Narrow Down Your Shopping List

Step 2
Let Your New Car Find You
With over hundreds of new makes and models available, how do you narrow down your list? To some extent, your lifestyle can help. Imagine the activities you'll experience in your new vehicle. If you have small children, you need something that's roomy enough for everything you have to take with you and is also strong on safety features. Or perhaps you care more about performance or style. Or maybe you have a job in sales and need something suitable for taking clients to lunch. If it has to haul or tow something, the choices are pretty obvious. 

When considering the purchase of a car, everything counts: Number of seats, number of doors, size, performance, color, style, comfort and sometimes even towing capacity. The key is to narrow your search by creating a short list of choices before ever stepping into a dealership. Where to start? Well, with the convenience of the internet and great sites like kbb.com, easy-to-use decision guides can help you narrow your list of candidates in a short time. 

Side-By-Side Comparisons
Another tool that will help you narrow your search is theSide-By-Side Comparison, which allows you to compare specifications and see which features are standard or optional on each new car. This is an especially helpful exercise when you are down to just a few vehicles and want to compare finer points or features. 

These easy-to-use internet tools put you in a position to effortlessly analyze your choices before making your final decision. Avoid making the common mistake of impulse buying. A minor delay in automotive gratification is worth the time spent, especially when receiving that information from a trusted source. Kelley Blue Book takes pride in serving you with the information you need, when you need it the most.

Calculate What You Can Afford

Step 3
Let Your Budget Do the Driving
When considering a new vehicle purchase, the lines of affordability can easily become blurred due to the varied financing options available. A wise buyer shops for a new vehicle based upon what he or she can truly afford. Keep an open mind and you could be pleasantly surprised by the list of vehicles within your price range. 

Affordability is a multi-faceted issue because the car-buying process can consist of several financial considerations. It will help if you determine, accurately and honestly, what your current car is worth, how much of a down payment you can make and a reasonable amount you can handle for monthly payments. Some careful thought and cold, hard honesty will pay big benefits later. Far too many buyers shop for cars that are beyond their budgets, want small down payments, drastically misjudge their capabilities regarding monthly payments and then want to reduce the monthly payments by stretching out the lengths of the loans, all of which leads to trouble in the future.
Another key element is deciding what to do with the current car.? As a general rule, it may be worth more to sell it yourself, to a private party, than to trade it in. But many people don't want to take the time and make the effort to do that. You should understand that if you trade it in you will probably not get as much for it as if you sell it yourself.? ?
The biggest issue for most buyers is the price of the new car. Fortunately, determining the MSRP is easy, and figuring at least a range for a realistic transaction price is also not terribly difficult.
Calculating Affordability
The new-car buying process is greatly simplified when you discover the bottom-line vehicle price you can afford ahead of time.
This is true whether you lease or buy. Here's an example of the kinds of details that may be involved in a typical new-car deal:
  1. "The trade-in value of the vehicle I currently own is $10,400."
  2. "I owe $2,200 on it." Meaning, you have about $8,200 equity in the car. ?
  3. "I've got $2,000 in savings I want to put down." Meaning, with the trade, you will be able to give the dealer a total of about $10,200. ?
  4. "I want to keep my payments under $400 per month for 60 months." That monthly payment schedule will finance, roughly, about $20,000, meaning the total price of the whole package can be the $20,000 plus the $10,200 you have handed the dealer, or $30,200.? That means a new car in the price range of roughly $27,000, because there will be, generally, about 10 percent added in taxes, license, fees and so forth.?
  5. Furthermore, it means the whole deal, by the time you have paid it off in five years, will have cost you about $34,200 ($400 times 60 months is $24,000, plus the $10,200 you gave the dealer in the form of your trade and the $2,000 down.
This means the same as:
  • "I can afford to buy a $27,000 vehicle." And it's going to cost you $34,200 and five years to do it.
There are many online tools available to help you determine affordability.

Your Current Vehicle -- Trade In or Sell Yourself
If your car is in extremely good condition and you have impeccable service records, it may be well worth your while to sell it on your own. On the other hand, if your car needs a lot of work, you may end up putting more money into it than you can recover -- so take a realistic look before you decide.

For trade-in, get the Blue Book® Trade-in Value of your current vehicle. This value -- based upon the condition of your vehicle -- is an accurate representation of what you may expect to be offered when trading in your vehicle at a dealership. If you decide to trade in your vehicle, keep in mind the dealer must assume the responsibility for preparing your trade-in for resale. This process usually includes mechanical and smog inspections as well as repairs to make the car ready to sell to the next owner. This will cost the dealer money, and the dealer will figure this into the deal.

If you would prefer to sell your vehicle to a private party, check out the Blue Book® Private Party value first. This is the value you can expect to get when selling the vehicle to another consumer. In this case, you are solely responsible for preparing your vehicle for sale as well as setting and negotiating a fair price. Read more on trading in or selling yourself in Step 8.

Loan Amount
To discover the amount you need to borrow, calculate the monthly payment you can afford via our payment calculator. This tool factors the interest rate and the term of your loan. Now add your available cash with the loan amount and you'll begin to arrive at a price that works for you. Also, check for any customer or dealerincentives that may be available on your new vehicle, adding to your available cash amount. Remember, you still need to add state tax, license and fees, which vary by state and can be obtained through your local DMV.

New Car Pricing
The best news is that new car pricing is now easily accessible online. Kelley Blue Book's kbb.com features three types of new car pricing:
  • Invoice Price
    The new car pricing report details the invoice price on each trim level. Dealer Invoice is the dealer's cost for the vehicle only and doesn't include any of the dealer's costs for advertising, selling, preparing, displaying or financing the vehicle.
  • MSRP Price
    The MSRP is the Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price, also known as the "sticker price." This price is required by law to be posted on every new vehicle and is usually -- but not always -- the highest market price. The exceptions occur when certain vehicles are in high demand or have low availability.
  • Fair Purchase Price Range
    Also, check out an available price called Fair Purchase Price. Updated weekly, the experts at Kelley Blue Book have developed the most accurate pricing guidelines for new-car buyers based on purchase data collected across the country.
In addition, incentives may be available on the car of your choice and will bring down the overall price. Current incentives information is easily accessible on kbb.com as well. Read more on new vehicle pricing in Step 5.

Your decision to stick to a budget will help provide peace-of-mind, both in the car-buying process and in the future. And remember, you're paying more than a dollar for every dollar you borrow, so making a substantial down payment toward the purchase price makes long-term sense. With these principles in place, you should be able to begin in-depth research on your new, shorter list of cars.

Do Your Research Online

Step 4
What makes a new car the best new car for you? 

With the incredible amount of data available, what specifically should you research? There are pricing and equipment options to consider, but what else should be of concern? Other important facts to discover include information about safety, quality and five-year cost of ownership. These ratings can help you achieve some needed peace-of-mind. Then, follow up by researching owner opinions and expert reviews. 

Safety
There are two aspects of safety. One is called "passive safety," which concerns itself primarily with protection of the occupants in the event of a crash. For the most part, passive safety is the job of the car, although the occupants have the responsibility to use the seat belts. Features associated with passive safety include airbags, energy-absorbing crumple zones, seat-belt pretensioners, head-protection devices and the like. The other aspect is called "active safety," which concerns itself primarily with not having the crash in the first place. For the most part, active safety is the job of the driver, but certain important features on the car can help the driver avoid a crash. These features include such things as antilock brakes, traction control and stability control. For driving in bad weather or on slippery surfaces, all-wheel drive or four-wheel drive can also be considered as having a positive effect on active safety. 

The relative importance of these features may vary based upon your driving style and where you drive. You can also check the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's (NHTSA) Government 5-Star Safety ratings.These ratings will give you an idea of the relative performance levels of various cars and trucks in crashes, and an indication of how your prospective vehicle's safety features compare to those of others. In 2010, NHTSA will release updated, more rigorous safety standards and in 2011, NHTSA will begin promoting crash avoidance technologies as standard features as part of the new Government 5-Star Safety ratings. You can learn more about crash avoidance technologies on NHTSA's website.

Quality
An online analysis of how your favorite vehicles rate in quality can be a true eye-opener. Years ago, quality referred only to the absence of defects in a car. Now, research organizations, such as J.D. Power, have expanded their research analysis to cover positive aspects of new cars. 

This valuable information is provided in the form of J.D. Power Circle Ratings. On the absence-of-defects side, sometimes described as "things gone wrong," you can find out how the car rates in mechanical, feature and accessory quality and the quality of the body and interior. For positive aspects of quality, known as "things gone right," you'll find ratings for performance, creature comforts and style. There's also a score for the dealership experience based on the J. D. Power "Customer Service Index." 

Expert Opinions
Another way to gain confidence in your purchase is to spend some time reading what the experts have to say about your new vehicle. Reading the opinion of experts before the test drive serves many purposes: You can discover the strengths of the car's performance, see how the vehicle compares in its class and learn how the vehicle rides and performs on longer trips, or what it's like to drive around town. 

Owner Opinions
The opinion of owners is also a valuable resource. With this tool you can discover how owners rate their new cars. A visit to the consumer review section of each vehicle pricing report on kbb.com will give you access to personal ratings and comments. After you purchase your car, you can submit a review of your own to help others make informed decisions. 

Side-By-Side Comparisons
Finally, don't forget to run a side-by-side comparison of the vehicles you are considering and you will get another level of insight. Seeing horsepower, mileage, seating capacity, headroom, legroom and other specifications side-by-side helps you quickly identify which vehicles meet your specific needs.